Short answer
A Sea-Dweller copy is a replica of the Rolex Sea-Dweller, a dive watch Rolex introduced in 1967. Copies sell for $180 to $700. The price tracks three parts: the movement, the case steel, and the bezel insert. A copy with a Seagull ST2130 or Miyota 9015 movement and a 316L steel case sits at the low end. A copy with a clone Rolex 3135 movement and a 904L steel case sits at the top.
Genuine reference points
- 1967, ref 1665: 610 m (2,000 ft) rating, helium escape valve at 9 o'clock, 40 mm case.
- 1978, ref 16660: 1,220 m (4,000 ft) rating.
- 2014, ref 116600: 40 mm case, ceramic bezel, no cyclops lens.
- 2017, ref 126600: 43 mm case, cyclops lens, red Sea-Dweller text, Caliber 3235 with a 70-hour power reserve.
Movements
Most copies run one of four movements. The Seagull ST2130 is an ETA 2824-2 copy at 28,800 vph. The Miyota 9015 is a Japanese automatic at 28,800 vph with a 42-hour reserve. The NH35 is a 21,600 vph workhorse with a 41-hour reserve. The SH3135 and VR3135 are clone Rolex movements. A 3135 clone puts the date wheel and the stem at the same height as the genuine case, so the crown sits at the right spot on the flank.
Case, bezel, crystal
Rolex builds the Sea-Dweller in 904L steel, which Rolex calls Oystersteel. Almost all copies use 316L. The two alloys look the same on a wrist. 904L takes a brighter polish. Bezel inserts come in ceramic for ref 116600 and 126600, and in aluminum for vintage ref 1665 and 16660. Check the insert font. Early copies used thin markers with wide spacing. Current inserts copy the genuine shape. Sapphire crystal, 2.5 mm thick, with an inner anti-reflective coat on the 126600.
Checks before you buy
- Ask for the movement name. Swiss ETA without a movement photo means a clone.
- Ask for photos of the case back, the crown threads, and the clasp code.
- Confirm the case size. Ref 126600 copies measure 43 mm. Some sellers list a 40 mm case as a 126600.
- Check the helium escape valve. It sits at 9 o'clock, flush with the case flank.
- Ask if the gaskets are greased and the case is pressure tested.
Water resistance
A genuine 126600 carries a 1,220 m (4,000 ft) rating. Copies carry no such rating. Sellers list 30 m to 100 m for daily wear. That covers rain and hand washing. It does not cover diving or lap swimming. Gaskets on copies can sit dry. A watchmaker can grease the case back gasket and pressure test the case for a small fee.
Weight and bracelet
A genuine 126600 on a full bracelet weighs about 180 g. Copies land between 150 g and 175 g. The bracelet shows the gap. Solid end links and a Glidelock clasp copy add grams. Hollow links drop them. Ask for a photo of the end link fit at the lugs. A gap over 0.6 mm is a tell.