The top pick for most buyers is a 39 mm plexi-crystal replica of ref. 1655 with an orange 24-hour arrow hand, a fixed engraved 24-hour steel bezel, drilled lugs, and a serviceable automatic movement with a working GMT hand. That combination matches the original blueprint. The criteria below are the ones that separate a convincing build from a costume piece.

The short answer

The Explorer II ref. 1655 was made from 1971 to 1985, and it carries a 24-hour hand, a fixed bezel, and a 39 mm case. A replica earns its place on your wrist when four things line up: case diameter, hand shape and color, dial markings, and a movement whose GMT hand sets and tracks the way it should. Everything else, from box and papers to marketing language, is noise. A replica is not a Rolex, and no seller should imply otherwise.

Why this watch is called the Steve McQueen

The name is a misnomer. Actor Steve McQueen was photographed with a Submariner, not an Explorer II. The nickname attached itself to the 1655 anyway and now does most of the selling. Italian collectors called the same watch the Freccione, which means big arrow, a nod to the oversized orange hand. Both names describe one reference, so a listing that uses the phrase proves nothing about quality. Judge the watch, not the nickname.

Criterion 1: case and crystal

The original case measures about 39 mm across with no crown guards, drilled lugs, and a domed plexiglass crystal. Replicas often inflate the case to 40 or 42 mm, which changes the whole silhouette on the wrist.

Pros

  • A true 39 mm case wears well on wrists from about 6 to 8 inches.
  • Plexiglass gives the warm edge distortion and light play of the original.
  • Drilled lugs make strap changes simple with a spring bar tool.

Cons

  • Oversized cases look bulky and the dial text ends up sitting too far from the bezel.
  • Plexi scratches and needs occasional polishing.
  • Thin, light steel and a flimsy case back make a build feel hollow.

Use case: choose plexi if you want the vintage look. Choose sapphire only if you wear the watch hard and dislike polishing.

Criterion 2: the orange hand and dial marks

The arrow hand is the heart of the design. It should be broad, flat, filled with lume, and orange rather than red or neon. Dial text should sit in the right spots with the right spacing and font weight.

Pros of a careful dial

  • Correct arrow shape and matte black dial read as vintage at arm's length.
  • Lume plots in the right size and position keep the face balanced.
  • Matching one dial variant, Mark I through Mark V, makes the details consistent.

Cons of a lazy dial

  • Over-saturated orange looks painted on rather than printed.
  • Wrong fonts or crowded text lines are the first thing collectors notice.
  • Date font and magnifier placement are frequent weak points.

Use case: if you only look at one detail, look at the hand. It defines the reference.

Criterion 3: movement

Most replicas use one of two paths: a basic Asian automatic with a 24-hour hand added, or a smoother high-beat clone with a proper GMT function.

Pros

  • Basic movements cost less and are easy to swap when they stop.
  • Higher-grade movements sweep smoothly, hack, and hold a longer power reserve.

Cons

  • Basic movements can stutter, run loud, and set the 24-hour hand crudely.
  • Better movements cost more and need a watchmaker for service.

Use case: daily wear justifies the better movement. An occasional dress-up piece does not.

Criterion 4: bracelet, crown, and case back

The original came on a folded-link Oyster-style bracelet with a stamped clasp, and the case back is plain. Replicas frequently ship with solid links and engraved backs.

Pros

  • Folded links look period correct and keep the watch light.
  • A plain back and a correctly sized crown sit flush and look right from the side.

Cons

  • Folded links rattle and stretch over time.
  • Solid links are durable but read as modern.

Use case: pick folded links for a vintage impression, solid links for a work watch.

Criterion 5: water resistance

Treat every replica as splash resistant at best. Gaskets on budget builds are inconsistent, and a case back that is not seated correctly will leak. Claims of deep diving ratings should be ignored.

Pros

  • A well-sealed build handles rain, hand washing, and sweat.

Cons

  • Swimming, showers, and salt water put the movement at risk.
  • Pressure testing is rarely done at the factory.

Use case: wear it as a daily watch and take it off before you get in the water.

What to ask before you buy

  1. Exact case diameter, measured, not quoted from a spec sheet.
  2. Movement type and whether the 24-hour hand is independently settable.
  3. Crystal material and thickness.
  4. Lug drilling and whether spring bars are standard size.
  5. Photos of the dial in daylight, not studio lighting.
  6. Return policy and what counts as a defect.

Which build fits you

For a first replica, take the 39 mm plexi build with the basic movement. It gets the look right, and the cost of a failure is low. For a daily wearer you will keep for years, step up to the high-beat movement, solid links, and a sapphire crystal, and accept that the bracelet will look newer than the watch. For a collection piece, chase dial accuracy and hand color first, because those are the details that hold attention on a shelf.