Quick answer
A replica Audemars Piguet Jules Audemars self-winding is a copy of AP's round dress watch line, and most examples run a third-party automatic movement rather than AP's in-house Calibre 3120. The tells that matter are case proportions, dial printing, date aperture alignment, and the finish on the movement and rotor. Treat the watch like any other purchase: measure it, inspect it under magnification, and confirm what caliber is inside before you commit.
What the genuine Jules Audemars Selfwinding is
The Jules Audemars family carries the name of AP co-founder Jules Louis Audemars. Self-winding versions pair a thin round case with an in-house automatic movement, most often Calibre 3120, which beats at 21,600 vibrations per hour, uses 40 jewels, and carries a 60-hour power reserve with a 22-carat gold oscillating weight. Depending on the reference, case diameters land in the 39 mm to 41 mm range, with sapphire crystals front and back and dials that run from plain opaline to guilloche with applied gold markers. Replica factories copy the outside of that formula and substitute the inside.
Prerequisites
- Digital calipers that read to 0.1 mm
- A 10x jeweler's loupe and a bright, diffused light
- A caseback opener sized to the watch, plus a soft cloth and finger cots
- The genuine reference numbers and specs for the model you are comparing against
- A quartz or app-based reference clock for a rate check
Inspection steps
- Measure the case diameter, lug-to-lug length, and thickness with calipers, then compare each number to the genuine reference spec.
- Set the watch on the cloth and study the dial through the loupe, reading the brand signature, the model text, and the marker alignment at 12 o'clock.
- Check the date aperture, confirming the window is centered on the dial and the numeral sits square within it.
- Flip the watch and read the caseback engraving, looking for cut lines rather than printed or shallow laser marks.
- Work the crown through both positions, setting the time and the date to feel for grit, backlash, or a stem that wobbles.
- Open the caseback with the correct tool and identify the movement by its bridge layout, jewel count, and engraved caliber number.
- Examine the rotor under the loupe, checking the engraving depth and whether the weight is solid gold, plated brass, or tungsten.
- Inspect the dial furniture from the side, since applied markers should sit raised above the surface with a clean polished bevel.
- Test the clasp or deployant, opening and closing it several times and checking the fit of the links or the strap stitching.
- Time the watch against the reference clock for 24 hours in the position you wear it most, noting the daily rate.
Movement tells
Calibre 3120 is a 280-part movement, and no replica has matched it. The common substitutes are a Miyota 9015, an ETA 2824 clone, or a decorated Chinese automatic built to look like the 3120. On a Miyota you will see a small balance wheel and a running seconds hand that sweeps with a slightly faster tick; on a decorated clone you will often find a fake gold rotor plate that hides the real winding mass and a balance wheel parked in the wrong spot relative to the bridges. Genuine 3120 finishing includes Geneva stripes, polished bevels, and a gold rotor with relief engraving. If the rotor text looks etched and flat, the movement is not in the same class.
Legal and practical note
Selling counterfeit watches is trademark infringement in the United States, and importing them can lead to seizure by Customs and Border Protection. That risk applies to shipments regardless of who ordered them. Buyers should also weigh the practical side: replicas use generic movements that most watchmakers will service, but parts and water resistance are not guaranteed, so treat a replica as a non-waterproof, non-investment item.